Respect life

After 23 days dedicated to monks and "spiritual development" I find myself surrounded by temples of consumption. It's weird, there are very few Thai people in this little beach village and they don't even greet you with "Sawasdee", they say "Hello". I don't like it. Even though I don't know many Thai words, I think that learning how to say "hello" and "thank you" in the language of a country is the least anybody can do to show some respect.
This place doesn't feel real. It's like a theme park, a genuine tourist ghetto, with all the downsides. It's just shops, restaurants and bars. Plus tour operators, selling you day tours to the "sights". I always admire how people all over the world are able to sell you the least interesting things as THE "must-see" sights. So you pay a lot of money and then you are dragged from one "sight" to another, to take photos in the manner of "I've been here" and off you go to the next spot of interest. But there's apparently no other simple way to see the beautiful clear waters and the coral reefs of the Andaman sea, you just have to go with all the tourists and enjoy your 30 minutes of snorkelling.
Yet these thirty minutes are a real highlight. Not sure it's worth to pay 30 Euro for the day tour, including the worst lunch I ever had in Thailand (I kind of expected that though), but swimming with "Nemo" and his friends was a real eye-opener. At first I was afraid, as I don't really like all these sea creatures and the idea that I'll be in the same water as them didn't really seem so great. But once in the water I was overwhelmed by the creativity and imagination of Mother Nature. And then I got sad, when I thought how mankind is slowly but surely destroying this little paradise with our industrial development caring for nobody but our own profit.
Maybe everybody should get to see this with their own eyes, maybe then everybody would develop some respect for the environment. These are living creatures with the same right to life as we have.
Of course, if everybody and their mother came here it would mean even more pollution, so even if it were technically doable, it's not a viable option. Somehow, however, mankind needs to grow up and take more interest in the life around us.
It reminded me of a meeting I attended before Christmas. EU Fisheries Council, where ministers were haggling over quotas - how much fish can be caught in a season. Arguing, that the quotas need to be high and higher to preserve the traditional way of life of the fishermen's communities. What a ridiculous argument! The traditional fishermen caught as much fish as was needed for their community, and the stocks never got depleted because some rich people in some landlocked country needed the delicacy that is blue fin tuna. Well, if these "traditional" fishermen continue with overfishing, they will soon destroy their "tradition" by themselves.
Just like with the tropical fruit. Of course, we all love our bananas and oranges and even more exotic fruits. But if you ever tried these fruits in their region of origin, you know that what we get in Europe is just a poor knock-off of the delicious original. I once bought a pomelo at home, after trying it in Vietnam. It tasted like nothing. Whereas here in South-East Asia it's juicy, tasty, delicious. Why do we import it, leaving a huge carbon footprint, if it doesn't even come close to the taste it's supposed to have?
Yet if we stop importing and consuming tropical fruits for example, we are putting jobs at risk in the countries of origin. So there's no easy solution as in, let's boycott all that's imported. I guess, it all comes down to the good old Buddhist "Middle Way" you have to be aware that your actions have consequences and no extremes are good.

Moving on

"Moving on" is actually a much better way to look at things than "saying goodbye". Saying goodbye to people you've spend so many happy hours with is never easy, but it's a totally different cup of tea when you know, you will probably never see them again. 

Moving on opens new perspectives, new opportunities to meet people who will inspire you in life. Moving on is hope, while saying goodbye is sorrow. I hate saying goodbye but love moving on. 

At the end of each class, my students would stand up and say "thank you teacher, see you again tomorrow". Now, there's no tomorrow for me with them. And maybe not even next year. It must be tough for full time teachers, when you watch your pupils get better each day, encourage them to harness their talents and then you see them leave to make place for new pupils.

In my class there were a couple of very talented young boys, which is even more amazing, considering their backgrounds. Danupol, one particularly gifted boy is from a poor hill tribe family of farmers and his father died, when Danupol was thirteen. He then decided to become a novice, to continue his education. "Otherwise, I'd have to plant rice and vegetables, all year round and would have no time to go to school. But I want to be a famous monk, who can teach people and take care of my family."

At seventeen he knows what really matters and may be wiser than many people will ever be.

In this digital age, it seems we are always only a wi-fi hotspot away from people who should matter. So we all exchange our email addresses and make friends on Facebook only to forget about each other in a time much shorter than it would have taken a traditional letter to cross the ocean just a century ago.

I didn't promise to come back. It would be misleading  and most of my friends won't be here either next year. They'll finish school, maybe leave life in the temple to find a job and start a family. 

Life is moving on. 

Off to the South tomorrow!

Oh my Buddha ...

“I’ll have to ask my master to find out” … one of the monks tells me, when he speaks about his research. He’s studying for a degree in political science and seems to have a lot of work to do.

“Do you know my master?” he asks me. “No”, I reply, “how could I know him?”

“It’s Master Google!” he tells me with a big grin in his face and we both laugh.

The other day, I was sitting in the “Monk chat” area with about 15 monks, plus the dogs that live on temple grounds. People who don’t want their dogs anymore or can’t take care of them bring them to the temple, because they know that the monks will take care.

So whenever I sit with the monks, there are some very old and sick looking dogs walking around us and even though I love dogs, these scare me a bit, just because they look like a great source of numerous undesirable diseases.  

All of a sudden, my friend Champa has a weird look on his face. He looks down to my feet.  “What?” I get a little uncomfortable. “Oh nothing”, he replies but he still looks funny. So I take a look down at my feet, to check what’s wrong and then I spot it. A big pile of dog’s droppings. Now, I’m not a person to freak out at this, I’ve picked up our dog’s droppings numerous times. So I only move my feet a little in order to avoid any contact with the “material”.

Champa asks me for a piece of paper, as he has nothing to pick the stuff up with. I take out my notepad and look for a blank page to tear out. Before I can do it they all break out in big laughter. Champa picks up the “droppings” with his hand. It’s made of plastic. They laugh so hard they can barely talk, but judging from a lot of Thai flying around me, they find it hilarious. Who said monks have to be serious?

“We don’t want to look serious” another of my friends tells me. “Then people would be afraid to talk to us, but we have to talk to them, we have to teach them about Buddhism and morality”. So, when they appear more approachable, it’s easier for them to carry out one of their duties.  I just wish, they’d stop pulling my leg!

Blessed be the Burger

Imagine you only had two meals a day, while there is plenty of tempting food all around you. Yes, you’d have to live with just breakfast and lunch, and nothing after noon. If that were me, going without dinner, you probably wouldn’t want to be anywhere around me in the evening. I might just as well bite your head off, literally and figuratively speaking.

Luckily, I’m not a monk so you’re safe as long as you keep me well fed J

However, as if the “two-meals-only” rule weren’t bad enough, the monks don’t have a choice of what they’ll eat.  Early morning, they walk the streets around their temples to collect food from good Buddhists, who want to “make merit” (collect good karma pointsJ) So, sometimes the monks get lots of good food and sometimes they get instant noodles or a little money and then, they can buy small meals themselves.

When asked about their favourite food, most of the monks tell me, they like everything. They don’t care what they eat. Sometimes they don’t even eat lunch, saying they’re not hungry. So it was quite a surprise to hear one of them say that he likes hamburgers. “I only ate it once” he said … “but it was soo good”.  “Hamburger beef, soo good” ... his eyes lit up when he remembered the one time he tried Western fast food.  “Can I get you one?”, I asked, not sure of the etiquette, would it be ok, if I gave him food, not during his morning round (as I doubt McDo is open before sunrise) but later, just before the noon deadline. “Yes, why not?” he replied and I promised that I’ll get him a “burger beef” the next day.

I can hardly imagine anything more embarrassing than going to a fast food joint in Thailand, a.k.a. the food paradise. You can get a good local meal for as little as 25 Baht (about 60 Eurocents) whereas you pay 135 Baht for a Big Mac Menu. But there I was. I marched into the empty restaurant and asked for a burger. And because I didn’t want to walk the 20 minutes to school, sporting a McDo bag, I took my own plastic bag from a bookshop to cover it up.

I was greeted with cheers. “Maria, you have a burger?” His eyes bright with expectation. “Yes, enjoy your meal!” I put the bag on the table in front of him and was expecting him, to dig in and savour the moment. However, it’s not as easy as that. First, he asked me to put my hands together. So I followed his example. He half-closed his eyes and began to chant in Thai, most probably thanking this generous stranger for his meal and wishing me well. I can only assume, as he said the last few words in English: “may you be happy, rich and loved”.  And then, slowly he took his first bite.

   Champa and his "burger beef"

Chatting with monks

Probably every guide book about Chiang Mai will tell you to go and chat with monks.  The so-called “Monk Chat” is almost an institution, the Monk Chat Club next to Wat Chedi Luang and the Mahamakut Buddhist University (located in the centre of the old town) was founded some 40 years ago.

The Buddhist Monks are ubiquitous in Thailand and yet to Westerners they seem a little mysterious. It shows when they approach the monks with some hesitation. The posters around the "Monk Chat" area are quite clear “don’t just stand there and look, come closer and let’s talk”. I’ve spent many many hours with the monks, observing some tourists asking questions, helping the monks with their English homework, or just listening to their explanations of Buddha’s teaching. In a way, I’ve become friends with some of the most outgoing monks.

The monks outside Wat Chedi Luang are students of the Mahamakut Buddhist University. They study all kinds of subjects, including political science or English for teachers. And they like to practice their language skills. Their average age is probably 21, and it shows. When I first came to "Monk Chat" last year, I happened to meet probably the funniest of the bunch. Where is your broomstick? he asked me.  It turned out that he’s a big fan of Harry Potter, so he just uses every opportunity to practice the vocabulary he learns. Usually, “Where are you from?” is the first question any of them will ask you. Slovakia, I reply. And then I can’t believe my ears : Rad som ta spoznal … he says, a literal translation of I’m pleased to meet you. He’s obviously met some tourists from Slovakia before. Most of the time, when I reply that I’m from Slovakia, people (not only in Asia) do not have a very precise idea of where that would be. I don’t blame them; it’s a tiny little spot on the map of the world. Still, Tawatchai (the funny monk) managed to greet me in my mother tongue.

Later I found out that he likes to learn phrases from various languages. When I told him I speak Swedish, he said Hej! and Tack! before impressing me with some Finnish word, that was totally random, but he found such a great joy in just saying it out loud.

How long are you staying in Chiang Mai – another popular question. When I tell them that I stay for a month, they want to know why. I’m teaching at the high school for novices. Oh, what do you teach? English. Will you help me with my homework? Soon after that they began to call me teacher.  It’s a great honour. Teachers are highly respected, since (as I was told) the gift of knowledge and time is the greatest you can give to people. 

Another day and another tourist asks the most frequently asked FAQ. What do the different colours of your robes mean? In 9 out of 10 conversations, this question is bound to come up. But they explain it patiently time and time again. It has no real meaning, except that the so called “forest monks” wear a brown robe unlike the “city monks” who wear orange, saffron or dark red. However, you can’t rely on that, because I saw forest monks in orange and city monks in brown, depending on what colour robes they were given. On average a monk has 3 robes and washes them every day or every other day. There are different styles of robes too, one that allows them to always have one shoulder bare and is held together with a belt and one that requires some complicated rolling of the cloth to cover both shoulders when they go outside the temple. This “rolling” robe needs frequent readjustment, so you’d often see monks standing in their “underwear” which is a yellow west with some pockets, straightening out the cloth and rolling it back to twirl it around their shoulders.

How long have you been a monk? Another FAQ. Most of the monks were novices since their early teens, or even younger. The thing is, if you see young boys wearing monk’s robes, it doesn’t mean they are monks. They are called “novice” until they reach the age of 20. So even if they live in the temple for many years, as novices they only observe 10 rules, as opposed to 227 that the monks have to observe.  Five of the ten rules apply also to lay Buddhists and are pretty obvious, such as no killing, no stealing, no lying, no sexual misconduct and no intoxicants. As a novice you’re not supposed to have a soft/high bed, eat after noon, sing, dance or exercise (sport), wear garlands or perfumes or adornments and accept gold or silver. 

"Can you get married?" Another question I overheard. "No, I'd have to stop being a monk" comes the only logical answer. After all, they are not allowed to touch a woman. As a woman, I can't even give them a book or anything else directly, I have to put it down first, so they can pick it up without touching me.

However, you still can become a monk once you were married. You just have to ask your family for permission and then you can come and live in the temple for as long as you wish.

So why do young boys become novices? Well, the most I’ve talked to, told me they wanted to get a good education. Usually they come from very poor families, often from hill tribes and living in the temple is their only chance to get some education.  Food comes from offerings, fees for university are cheap and accommodation is for free. After graduating, very few remain in the temple as they return back to their home villages to take care of their families.

They say, they like being monks … even though they have to renounce worldly pleasures, their lives are (in their own words) carefree and comfortable. No worries, no regrets.

Teaching Novice Monks

First there were expectations. I even paid for an online course in "teaching English as a foreign language" because I realised that I need to learn some skills to be a teacher. So I learned how to make lesson plans, how to teach vocabulary, grammar, listening or reading skills. Equipped with this "toolbox" I came to my class.

The mornings in the "high school for novices" begin in an assembly hall, where all the pupils in their orange robes sit on the floor and listen to a speech given by a senior monk.

Then at nine o'clock, the classes begin. Or they should.

For a European, used to very strict discipline and everything being on time and clearly organised, a Thai school seems very relaxed. Times when classes are supposed to start are, apparently, just for general orientation. Sometimes, the pupils would come 10 minutes late, because they were held up in their morning meeting before school. Sometimes, the bell would ring to indicate the end of class. Sometimes, one of the students would tell me, that our time's up.

A big surprise was that I had to be barefoot in school. Of course, you'd take off your shoes when entering a temple or even a public bathroom. (Luckily they provide "inside" shoes to wear.) But I had no idea I'd be barefoot in school. It felt very strange at first. I felt kind of exposed. And not to speak of the cold floor. Then I got some socks and life got so much better.
Another difference are the open classrooms. Doors are there, but they are never closed. Pupils walk in and out, as they feel appropriate, plus the noise is just overwhelming, so you have to speak really loud.
When the teacher comes in, everybody stands up and greets you almost like chanting  "good morning, teacher, how are you" so you answer, "I'm fine, how are you" and when the students tell you they are fine, you ask them to sit down. It's better not to confuse them with words, like "I'm great", never interrupt their routine.
In the class itself, I improvise a lot. I didn't get any textbooks from the teacher so I have no idea, how much my pupils are actually supposed to know. Suffice to say, that their knowledge seems rather basic.
There's not much you can achieve within three weeks that I have available. But I try. At least, I want to spark some more enthusiasm for English. So we play simple games, I mime and act a lot, when presenting new things and give a lot of encouragement and praise, when they cooperate with me :-)
Quite often, they just talk in Thai and laugh. But it seems to me that when they laugh, it's more an expression of embarrassment rather than laughing AT me. After all, they are still teenage boys, even though they wear  their monk's robes. And they are very shy.
The best part is, when some of them come up to me after class, just to say a few words. Maybe it's because they're less embarrassed when their classmates are not listening. And it turns out that they actually know a lot!
It takes a lot of patience, but it is a lot of fun too. Definitely a great way to get to know a bit more about the life in this country.

Volunteering

For some people, travel is only about seeing buildings, museums, shopping, maybe eating different food. And that's just fine. I've been the same for many years. I'm quite reserved, so meeting new people seems rather intimidating.
Yet when I first came to Asia, two and a half years ago, I had a totally different experience with people. Being a very tall blonde, I felt like a fairground attraction in the beginning, because people would walk up to me to take pictures with me, or secretly take pictures of me. Not surprisingly, I was a bit uncomfortable. But then I realised, I'm doing the same to them. I like to take their pictures, in their natural environment. The life on the streets in China or Vietnam was totally fascinating.
I knew, I had no chance to get to know more about them, if I continue to travel with an organised group.
However, I didn't feel comfortable enough to travel on my own. And then somehow, it occurred to me. I could work as a volunteer, get to know the people a bit better and maybe travel a bit around the place where I'd volunteer.
There are so many opportunities, it's next to impossible to choose. Of course, you want to find something, you feel fit to do. I didn't really feel brave enough to work with (HIV) orphans, or strong enough to carry out some construction work. What else was left? I don't even know how I stumbled upon "teaching English". But would that be a viable option, since English is not my mother tongue?
Luckily, if you're willing to work as a volunteer, people will welcome you, even if you're not a native speaker. So after some more searching I ended up in Thailand. Chiang Mai, to be more precise.
Chiang Mai, or as I call it, the city of temples.
And in the temples live my students, novice Buddhist monks. The chance to teach them and talk to them brought me here and it's been the best "travel" experience so far.

On the road again

I've been here in Chiang Mai for five days. And experienced so many emotions. My head was spinning and I kept telling myself, how I need to write this down.
Ever since I left this perfect little place last year, I was planning my return. And ever since I finally purchased the air ticket, my heart jumped at the mere thought that in less then two months, less than one month, less than ... I'll be back here, where I was so happy last year.
When the big day came, I felt such a strong reluctance, all of a sudden. Wondering, what makes people pack their bags and leave for far away places? Why do some people live happily without ever leaving their town or village while others are restless and always planning their next trip or at least dreaming of travel?
This world is a paradox, it's grown so small and yet so big at the same time. Just a hundred years ago travelling in general was but for a select few. Or it meant one journey in a lifetime to start a new life. Nowadays we board a plane and in a  few hours we are on a different continent, immersing ourselves more or less into a different culture. The possibilities are huge, the world is too big to be travelled all over within one lifetime. Unless you travel for life.
And yet its small, no distance requires a lifetime commitment any more, only cash and courage.
But why oh why did I board that plane and underwent the torture of 10 hours in an uncomfortable seat? Why would I take all these risks, that travel brings?
Well, ten minutes on the streets of Chiang Mai gave me the answer. Travelling to foreign places gives me the freedom to do things, I'd never feel comfortable to do at home. Like, going to a pub alone have a beer and listen to live music. Like, chatting to strangers who ask you where you're from and what you're doing here. Like, smiling at the people coming in my direction. Like enjoying the present and not worrying about the future.
Carpe Diem!
The best aspect so far was the fantastic welcome I received from the student monks that I spent so many hours with last year, helping them with their English homework or just chatting with them about life and everything. I admit, I was a bit nervous, what it would be like, after I had such a brilliant time last year. But the cheers that greeted me took away all the fears. It's as if I'd never left.