Probably every guide book about Chiang Mai will tell you to go and chat with monks. The so-called “Monk Chat” is almost an institution, the Monk Chat Club next to Wat Chedi Luang and the Mahamakut Buddhist University (located in the centre of the old town) was founded some 40 years ago.
The Buddhist Monks are ubiquitous in Thailand and yet to Westerners they seem a little mysterious. It shows when they approach the monks with some hesitation. The posters around the "Monk Chat" area are quite clear “don’t just stand there and look, come closer and let’s talk”. I’ve spent many many hours with the monks, observing some tourists asking questions, helping the monks with their English homework, or just listening to their explanations of Buddha’s teaching. In a way, I’ve become friends with some of the most outgoing monks.
The monks outside Wat Chedi Luang are students of the Mahamakut Buddhist University. They study all kinds of subjects, including political science or English for teachers. And they like to practice their language skills. Their average age is probably 21, and it shows. When I first came to "Monk Chat" last year, I happened to meet probably the funniest of the bunch. Where is your broomstick? he asked me. It turned out that he’s a big fan of Harry Potter, so he just uses every opportunity to practice the vocabulary he learns. Usually, “Where are you from?” is the first question any of them will ask you. Slovakia, I reply. And then I can’t believe my ears : Rad som ta spoznal … he says, a literal translation of I’m pleased to meet you. He’s obviously met some tourists from Slovakia before. Most of the time, when I reply that I’m from Slovakia, people (not only in Asia) do not have a very precise idea of where that would be. I don’t blame them; it’s a tiny little spot on the map of the world. Still, Tawatchai (the funny monk) managed to greet me in my mother tongue.
Later I found out that he likes to learn phrases from various languages. When I told him I speak Swedish, he said Hej! and Tack! before impressing me with some Finnish word, that was totally random, but he found such a great joy in just saying it out loud.
How long are you staying in Chiang Mai – another popular question. When I tell them that I stay for a month, they want to know why. I’m teaching at the high school for novices. Oh, what do you teach? English. Will you help me with my homework? Soon after that they began to call me teacher. It’s a great honour. Teachers are highly respected, since (as I was told) the gift of knowledge and time is the greatest you can give to people.
Another day and another tourist asks the most frequently asked FAQ. What do the different colours of your robes mean? In 9 out of 10 conversations, this question is bound to come up. But they explain it patiently time and time again. It has no real meaning, except that the so called “forest monks” wear a brown robe unlike the “city monks” who wear orange, saffron or dark red. However, you can’t rely on that, because I saw forest monks in orange and city monks in brown, depending on what colour robes they were given. On average a monk has 3 robes and washes them every day or every other day. There are different styles of robes too, one that allows them to always have one shoulder bare and is held together with a belt and one that requires some complicated rolling of the cloth to cover both shoulders when they go outside the temple. This “rolling” robe needs frequent readjustment, so you’d often see monks standing in their “underwear” which is a yellow west with some pockets, straightening out the cloth and rolling it back to twirl it around their shoulders.
How long have you been a monk? Another FAQ. Most of the monks were novices since their early teens, or even younger. The thing is, if you see young boys wearing monk’s robes, it doesn’t mean they are monks. They are called “novice” until they reach the age of 20. So even if they live in the temple for many years, as novices they only observe 10 rules, as opposed to 227 that the monks have to observe. Five of the ten rules apply also to lay Buddhists and are pretty obvious, such as no killing, no stealing, no lying, no sexual misconduct and no intoxicants. As a novice you’re not supposed to have a soft/high bed, eat after noon, sing, dance or exercise (sport), wear garlands or perfumes or adornments and accept gold or silver.
"Can you get married?" Another question I overheard. "No, I'd have to stop being a monk" comes the only logical answer. After all, they are not allowed to touch a woman. As a woman, I can't even give them a book or anything else directly, I have to put it down first, so they can pick it up without touching me.
However, you still can become a monk once you were married. You just have to ask your family for permission and then you can come and live in the temple for as long as you wish.
So why do young boys become novices? Well, the most I’ve talked to, told me they wanted to get a good education. Usually they come from very poor families, often from hill tribes and living in the temple is their only chance to get some education. Food comes from offerings, fees for university are cheap and accommodation is for free. After graduating, very few remain in the temple as they return back to their home villages to take care of their families.
They say, they like being monks … even though they have to renounce worldly pleasures, their lives are (in their own words) carefree and comfortable. No worries, no regrets.
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